젖과 꿀이 흐르는 개성땅을 밟으며

by master on Nov 13, 2006
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김병로 (서울대 통일연구소 연구교수)  북한의 핵실험 사태로 정국이 뒤숭숭하던 2006년 10월 26일, 북민협(대북지원민간단체협의회) 대표들과 함께 개성공단을 방문했다. 북측의 민경련(민족경제련합회)과 최근 수해복구 상황을 점검하고 향후 대북지원 문제를 논의하기 위한 회동이었다.

  아직 동이 채 뜨기도 전, 강북강변도로를 타고 자유로를 질주하여 금새 일산·파주를 훌쩍 지나갔다. 조금씩 차량의 왕래가 뜸해지더니 이내 차들의 흔적이 완전히 사라지고 우리 일행을 태운 차량만이 유유자적 휴전선을 향해 올라갔다.

  30분도 안되어 남측 ‘출입경사무소’라 부르는 CIQ에 도착했다. 금강산과 마찬가지로 개성으로 가기 위해서는 4km 길이의 비무장지대(DMZ)를 통과해야 한다. 비무장지대의 남쪽 끝에 남측CIQ가 있고, 북쪽 경계 지점에 북측CIQ가 각각 자리 잡고 있다. 남측CIQ에 들어가 서류수속을 마치고 개성으로 들어가기 위해 차량들이 줄을 섰다. 개성으로 가는 교통편은 따로 마련되어 있는 것이 아니라 서울에서 각자 몰고 온 차를 그대로 타고 들어가도록 되어 있다. 그런데 줄을 서 있는 차량의 수가 몇 대 되지 않았다. 개성을 자주 방문하는 북민협 대표들은 북핵실험 이전에는 ‘수백대’의 차량이 줄을 섰다며 핵실험 이후 개성공단도 큰 타격을 받고 있다고 걱정했다.

  9시 정각이 되자 진기한 장면이 눈앞에 펼쳐졌다. 일렬로 서 있는 차량행렬 앞으로 군용짚차 한대가 나타났다. 그러더니 군용차가 선두에 서고 차량행렬을 북쪽으로 안내하며 올라갔다. 남측 군용차가 한참 동안 우리를 호위하며 올라가더니, 휴선전 못미치는 지점에서 남쪽으로 다시 돌아나가고, 휴전선 북쪽에서 대기하고 있던 북측 군용차 2대가 우리 차량행렬을 이끌고 북측 CIQ로 인도해 올라갔다. 개성공단이 열렸지만 이곳이 삼엄한 군사지역이며 남북은 여전히 군사적으로 대치상태라는 것을 실감하도록 만드는 장면이었다.

  북측CIQ를 통과하자 바로 위쪽에 현대식 공장건물들이 보였다. 너무 가까이에 위치하고 있어서 “설마 저곳이 개성공단은 아니겠지”라고 생각하며 대표단에서 물었다. 대표단은 “바로 저기가 개성공단입네다”라고 대답했다. 너무 갑작스레 나타난 개성공단을 바라보며, “참 별거 아니네,” “땅이 이렇게 좁나”하는 실망스런 생각이 들었다. 좀더 북쪽으로 올라가 뭔가를 더 볼 수 있을 것이란 기대감은 무너지고, 휴전선만 보고 가는구나 하는 허탈감마저 들었다.

  그러나 북측 대표단의 안내를 따라 개성공업지구로 들어가 시설들을 하나하나 둘러보면서 조금씩 감동이 몰려오기 시작했다. 남북경협사무소 안으로 들어가자 1층에 있는 한전 사무실에는 북측 여성근로자와 남측 관리원이 함께 근무하는 모습이 보였다. '우리은행'에 들어가 북한 여직원에게 환전도 해보았다. 북측 근로자들을 간접 진료하고 있는 그린닥터스병원과 최근 완공한 ‘남북협력병원’ 건물도 들어가 보았다. 시범단지 내에 근린공원 조성과 주상복합단지 건설로 공사가 한창 진행 중이었다. 관리위원회측의 설명을 들으니, 신원, 로만손, 티에스정밀 등 시범단지에 들어와 있는 15개 공장에서 8천명의 북한근로자와 9백명의 남측 근로자가 함께 일하고 있다고 한다. 이 근로자들이 한국에서 지원한 현대식 버스 32대를 이용해 출퇴근하는 모습은 장관이라고 한다.

  개성공단의 본공사를 위해 닦아 놓은 터를 보니 그 규모가 대단했다. 2년 전만 해도 이 지역은 논밭과 야산으로 된 초록들판이었고 한가한 시골지역에 불과했다. 멀리 공단지역임을 표시해 놓은 초록색 팬스가 보이고, 그 안쪽에 온통 황토빛으로 갈아엎어진 드넓은 개성벌판을 보면서, 천지개벽이란 바로 이런 것을 두고 하는 말이라 생각되었다. 개성공단에 진출한 신원, 로만손, 스타필드 등 여러 기업체 얘기를 듣는 도중 북한사람들 앞에서 괜히 기분이 우쭐해졌다. 한국에 대한 자긍심이 절로 우러나왔다. 통일 이후 한국이 떠맡아야 할 경제적 부담이 크겠다는 생각도 들었지만, 한국의 위력을 떨칠 수 있고 그만큼 투자와 개발 가능성도 무한하지 않을까 싶었다.

  북한 대표단들과 대북지원 문제를 토의하는 과정에서는 북측은 식량과 식용유, 생필품, 의류 등을 더 보내 달라고 요청했다. 북측은 “질보다는 양”이라면서 어떻게든 같은 값으로 더 많은 물품을 받아보려고 애를 썼다. 또 민화협과는 달리 공장과 기반시설을 갖고 있는 민경련이라 그런지 완성품보다는 원료를 선호했다. 원료를 주면 공장도 돌리고 주민들의 기호에 맞게 생필품을 제공할 수 있을 것이라면서 원단과 원사 등 한사코 원료를 요구했다.

  우리 측은 북한의 핵실험 이후 국민들의 감정이 좋지 않아 북한을 지원하기가 무척 어렵다고 설명했다. 더군다나 원료를 준다는 것은 남쪽에서 많은 오해를 불러일으킬 소지가 있어 어렵다고 선을 그었다. 그러면서 바로 전날 한 일간지에 보도된 ‘용천지원물품’에 관한 얘기를 꺼냈다. 용천에 지원한 인도주의 물품이 시장에 나돌고 있다는 사건보도였다. 북측은 의외로 쉽게 설명했다. 용천지원물품 가운데 지원물량이 넘치는 품목을 중국에 팔고 대신 필요한 물품을 사왔다는 것이다. 그런데 중국에서 용천물건을 사들인 사람이 그 물건을 다시 북한에 팔아넘긴 경우가 있었다는 것이다. 결과적으로 시장에 용천물품이 나도는 것은 사실로 받아들여졌다.

  이런 식의 흥미로운 대화는 황해도 주택건설 지원사업을 토의하면서도 계속 이어졌다. 마을 내 102가구 중에서 40%가 동거살이를 하고 있다는 것이다. 그러니까 절반가량의 주민들이 한 집에 두 세대가 함께 살고 있다는 것인데, 농촌에서도 주택난이 생각보다 심각했다. 그리고 100채의 집을 짓는데, 30%는 자기집 바로 주위에 개별적으로 텃밭을 갖고 싶어 하는 반면, 70%는 개인텃밭을 한 곳에 모아 공동으로 관리해 주기를 원한다고 한다. 공동관리 텃밭에도 개인소유가 명확히 구분되어 있는 것은 물론이다. 공동으로 텃밭을 관리하려는 이유는 낮에 일을 나가고 집에 사람이 없으면 자기텃밭에서 다른 사람이 훔쳐갈까봐 불안하기 때문이라는 것이다. 그래서 “북쪽은 도둑이 없어서 괜찮지 않느냐”고 했더니, “아무래도 일(도둑)이 있게 마련”이라며 말을 흐렸다. 사람 사는 곳은 어디나 탐욕이 있고 문제가 있기 마련일 것이다.

  점심식사를 하러고 봉동관에 들렀을 때 주택가를 찍으려고 카메라를 돌렸더니 사진을 찍지말라고 제지하였다. 개방된지 얼마 안되어서 인지 분위기가 아직은 딱딱하였다. 평양과 금강산도 처음에는 삼엄한 분위기였지만 지금은 많이 달라졌다. 개성도 바뀔려면 시간이 좀  걸릴 것 같았다. 식사를 한 봉동관은 바로 몇 일 전 열린우리당 김근태 의장이 여종업원과 춤을 추었다고 하여 문제가 되었던 곳이다. 자그맣고 초라한 식당이 단번에 남쪽에서 ‘핵춤’으로 유명세를 얻은데 대해 여종업원들은 상당히 으쓱해하였다.

  황혼녘 돌아오는 길에 북측CIQ에서 다시 개성공단쪽을 바라보았다. 아침에 실망스럽게 보였던 개성공단과는 사뭇 달라 보였다. 시범단지 뒤로 끝없이 펼쳐진 공단부지가 현대식 공장과 건물들로 저만치 채워질 날을 그려보니, 가슴 벅차 올랐다. 이 공단이 완성되면 남북한의 30만 주민이 이곳에서 함께 일한다고 했던가! 휴전선 너머에 새롭게 조형되고 있는 또 하나의 세계, 그 곳은 분명 남북인 모두에게 젖과 꿀이 흐르는 희망의 땅이었다.

김병로 (서울대 통일연구소 연구교수)

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